
Osaka has a word for its own eating culture: kuidaore, roughly "eat until you drop." Dotonbori, the canal-side strip in the Namba district, is where the city practices it most loudly. Here's what's worth your stomach space, in the order you might actually eat it on a single evening.
Takoyaki (batter balls with a piece of octopus inside, cooked in a dimpled iron plate) is the dish Osaka is proudest of, and there are at least a dozen serious stands within a five-minute walk of the Glico sign. They are not all the same. Some fry the batter crisp; some keep it runny inside so it almost spills when you bite. Toppings vary too: standard is brown sauce, mayo, bonito flakes, and green laver, but you'll find salt-and-green-onion versions and ones with a dashi broth on the side.
The right way to do it is a comparison. Buy six from one stand, six from another, and eat them standing at the counter. Watch the cook while you wait: they flip each ball with a single metal pick in a rhythm that never seems to pause, and the hiss when fresh batter hits the plate is the sound of this street. They are extremely hot inside. Wait a minute.
Kushikatsu is skewered, breaded, deep-fried anything: pork, shrimp, lotus root, quail egg, cheese, asparagus. You dip each skewer into a communal tin of thin sauce on the counter. The rule, printed on the wall of every shop in Japanese and English, is no double dipping. You dip once, before the first bite. If you want more sauce, use the free cabbage leaves as a scoop.
Most kushikatsu shops are casual, with counters and a menu where individual skewers cost ¥100 to ¥250. Order in small rounds. A satisfying stop is 8 to 10 skewers with a beer.
Dotonbori is a daytime shopping street and a nighttime spectacle. Arrive around 5:30 p.m. and you get both. The neon and LED billboards along the canal switch on gradually as it gets dark. The Glico running man is the famous one, but the whole facade opposite Ebisu Bridge is worth watching from the bridge itself for a few minutes. The canal water picks up every color and the reflection moves with the tour boats. It's loud, it smells of fried batter and sauce, and it's completely unselfconscious about being exactly what it is.
Ebisu Bridge is the crowd bottleneck. For a quieter angle on the same view, walk one bridge east to Aiau Bridge, or take the riverside walkway on the south bank.
There is enough on this strip that a first visit can turn into wandering back and forth without settling on anything.
A single evening route through Dotonbori's best takoyaki, kushikatsu, and okonomiyaki, with walking and train directions from wherever you're starting.
See the full pamphlet